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Buyers Guide

Lustre & Orient
Nacre Thickness
Colour
Size
Shape
 
 
Nacre Thickness
 
The thickness of the pearl's nacre and its quality is what gives the pearl its unique beauty. The thicker the nacre and the better the nacre quality, the more lustrous, iridescent, and exquisite the pearl. Nacre thickness determines the pearl's longevity: the thicker the nacre, the longer the life of the pearl.

Pearl producing oysters in the warmer waters of Tahiti, the Cook Islands and Australia produce nacre much faster than Japanese or Chinese; some experts estimate production to be fifteen to twenty times faster. This means that even if the pearl is left in the oyster for the same amount of time as Japanese pearls - and black pearls usually have a longer cultivation period - the nacre would be much thicker.

Nacre thickness of high quality Tahitian South Seas cultured pearls is thicker than other saltwater varieties, and the finest may be 40 to 50 percent nacre. In Tahitian black pearls a nacre thickness of less than 0.8mm is considered a reject and is not able to be sold locally or for export. In comparison, a nacre thickness of at least 0.5 mm is considered Very Thick in the grading of Japanese pearls. Japanese or Chinese saltwater cultured pearls average about 10 to 15 percent nacre of the total pearl diameter, and rarely exceed 30 percent. Nacre thickness of high quality South Sea Cultured Pearls is thicker than other saltwater varieties, and the finest may be 40 to 50 percent nacre.

Ratio nacre to bead
2:5
Ratio nacre to bead
1.6
Ratio nacre to bead
0.7:6.3
Ratio nacre to total pearl
40% 2:7
Ratio nacre to total pearl
14% 1:7
Ratio nacre to total pearl
10% 0.7:7

As of July 2002, the new minimum standard for Tahitian black pearl nacre thickness was changed from 0.6mm to 0.8mm. Quality rather than quantity is focus of today's black pearl producers.

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